Getting Models Into Fighting Shape
Robert Caplin for The New York Times
Michael
Olajide Jr. has trained some 15 models to "sleekify" so they can
squeeze into sample sizes for Fashion Week. Here, he puts the model Lily
Kwong through her paces at his gym.
For
models, the former boxer Michael Olajide Jr. is the heavyweight of
trainers — the go-to guy for girls who have to get runway-ready in a
hurry.
For
this fashion week, he trained some 15 models needing to "sleekify," as
he called it, to squeeze into sample sizes. (Most common problem: the
hips.) In preparation for last September's shows, roughly another dozen
catwalk hopefuls hit Aerospace High Performance Center, the spare, airy
gym in the West Village that Mr. Olajide owns with the former ballerina
Leila Fazel.
Mr. Olajide's
not-a-dry-shirt-left-in-the-room workouts feature rapid-fire
choreographed punching sequences (clients punch the air, not one
another's lucrative faces), mixed with jump-rope intervals not seen on
any playground. One example: a riff on speedskating that requires
landing with one heel crossed behind the opposite leg. Classes can sound
like hailstorms, the red jump ropes thwacking the floor. The
three-quarter-pound ropes are nicknamed the Rainmaker, for their
sweat-inducing potential.
"I like
to say there's no such thing as cold fusion," said Mr. Olajide. "You've
got to get your body hot if you want to burn calories and lose that
weight." He contends that jumping rope gets the body moving faster than
it can with any other exercise, turning the metabolic oven "up to
grill."
Mr. Olajide, 49, a highly
ranked middleweight boxer until an injury left him legally blind in the
right eye and ended his career, has been attracting the fashion crowd
since his days teaching at Equinox and Chelsea Piers in the 1990s. (He
met his wife of 16 years, the graphic designer Maryann Levesque, at
Equinox on West 76th Street.) He doesn't know exactly what lured the
first models to his classes, though it may help that he's always dressed
with flair.
For off-duty clothes,
he favors Jean Paul Gaultier. In his boxing days he designed his own
$2,000 white silk satin robe with samurai shoulders and a three-headed
dragon snake-spitting flames. And over his blind eye, he wears patches
that he has sketched and had cast: a gunmetal eye of Horus, an ancient
Egyptian symbol of protection; a gold squarish oval with rivets and a
mesh strain; and a silver starburst he loves but rarely wears because
its rays are too sharp.
Eventually,
the 6-foot, 165-pound Mr. Olajide ended up training the supermodels
Iman and Linda Evangelista. The latter recommended him to a fashion
photographer, who in turn referred him to Adriana Lima.
Ms.
Lima, 31, has been working out with him for seven years; after the
birth of her second child in September, he coached her six hours a day,
seven days a week for five weeks to prep for her own title fight: the
Victoria's Secret fashion show. Ms. Lima's case — "needing perpetual
motion," he said — was extreme; most of his exercise prescriptions are
an hour a day, sometimes two.
Mr. Olajide acknowledged that the weight can come back on quickly once the workout (and preshow diets) stop.
"Like
boxers, they have a performance weight and an everyday weight," he said
of models. With each season, it can get harder to snap back to sample
size. "It becomes: Will they allow themselves mentally to go to that
level of discomfort? How hungry are they?"
The
British model Nyasha Matonhodze, 18, started working out at Mr.
Olajide's gym at her agency's recommendation. "As models, we know that
we have to be, some would say, ridiculously thin," she said. "It's not
exactly a woman's shape, but it is high fashion."
During
the past three weeks, she has sometimes worked out at Aerospace twice a
day, trimming an inch and a half from her hips.
Ms.
Matonhodze said she enjoyed "skipping like a little girl" at the gym.
Of Mr. Olajide, she said, "He's so lovely and welcoming, and he's got a
lot of humility."
During sessions,
Mr. Olajide sizes up models ("my fighters") as he would opponents before
bouts, looking for signs of weakness and self-doubt.
"I've
had to make weight myself — I understand the task is just so weighty
that they need support," he said. "It's more than just working out at
that point." Moves change about every 90 seconds, partly because mental
fatigue often comes before physical.
Exercises
that trim mere mortals can be career-maiming for catwalkers. Push-ups
are out — developing the chest is bad news — as are squats and lunges,
which make the derrière too round to fit into the clothes. (Lingerie
models are allowed lunges because they are allowed curves, he said.) Ab
exercises also are rationed. "When they really burn the fat you'll see a
six-pack, which is not usually the goal," Mr. Olajide said. "You want
flat, but if you're too cut, defined and hard, that can be
counterproductive. We want long, willowy, wispy, flowing."
Caitlin
Holleran, 16, who in October wore a fitted floor-length chiffon dress
on the Yves Saint Laurent runway in Paris, had to shrink her hips back
down by two inches this season to match the measurement (34 inches)
listed on her modeling card. Among other things, the type of power
vinyasa yoga she'd been doing was building too much muscle, she said,
adding bulk.
Ms. Holleran struggled
to master the jumps, but even doing "the basic ones" still allowed her
to hit her goal "crazy fast," she said, thanks to four or five classes a
week, plus personal training sessions.
Three
weeks of Mr. Olajide's method worked for Drake Burnette, 27, who wanted
to shrink her hips an inch and a half for her first attempt at Fashion
Week work (she just signed with an agency in the fall). "It's hell
during the class, but you feel amazing and can't wait to get back," she
said.
Chris Gay, the president of
Marilyn Agency, New York, said that the modeling agency has had "a lot
of success with sending our girls to his classes prior to fashion week."
"It's not magic," he added. "It's a crazy difficult workout, and Michael works them really hard."
At
Aerospace, in the days before the shows, models wear leggings so they
don't end up with welts if a jump rope accidentally grazes them.
Concentration is a good thing, but a wrinkled forehead while doing so is
bad news.
"Relax the face," Mr.
Olajide tells them, his velvety voice calm and sometimes so soft it
could, ironically, cause strain just to hear it.
Later,
he explained: "If you furrow the brow for an hour or two hours every
day, it's going to stay that way. I can't have them leave here with
lines that weren't there before — they won't stay employed for very
long, and neither will I." Then he mused, "Is a furrowed brow better
than a unibrow?"
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